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HOME MAINTENANCE TIPS

INTRODUCTION

In a home, very few things are maintenance free. While it is a bitter pill for most homeowners to swallow, the fact is that preventative maintenance, with all the time and money it consumes, is still far more cost effective than the crisis management approach of waiting until something breaks and then scrambling to have it repaired. Preventative maintenance can avoid repairs, extend the life expectancy of many components and in some cases, reduce energy consumption.

Ideally, preventative maintenance inspections should be performed semi-annually in the spring and fall. However, some components require more or less frequent inspections. Where appropriate, this is noted. Records of any work performed should be kept updated. For your convenience, a checklist with recommenced maintenance tasks is attached to this report.

One last thought. There probably is not a homeowner alive who performs maintenance inspections to the degree that we suggest. So take all of this with a grain of salt. Suffice it to say, the more you do, the better.

ADVANCE WARNING

A systematic maintenance approach also one to monitor certain conditions and components. Regular roof inspections, for example, will give one enough advance warning to allow for several roofing quotes in order to make an educated and cost effective purchase of a new roof covering. If on the other hand, no maintenance is done, and the roof suddenly leaks, there is very little time to do comparative shopping. Under these circumstances, one is forced to go with the roofer who can do the job the fastest - not necessarily with the roofing materials of your choice or at the best possible price. In addition to monitoring systems, which wear out, structural monitoring can also be performed. It is not uncommon for people who have been living in a house for some time to suddenly realize that a door frame is out of square and the door does not close properly. With regular maintenance, the cracks that occur in the wall surfaces adjacent to the door frame can be monitored. Knowing whether these cracks have appeared suddenly or have been increasing at a specific rate, is valuable information when diagnosing the problem and designing a repair.

EXTERIOR

Chimneys: Chimneys should be inspected for loose or deteriorated bricks or mortar. If covered with stucco or parging, look for cracks or loose sections. Chimney caps should be inspected for loose or broken sections, as should the protruding clay chimney liners. Chimney flashings should be inspected for leakage. Efflorescence (a white salt build-up on the chimney) indicates moisture within the chimney and further investigation is required. Metal chimneys should be checked for rust, missing rain caps and loose braces.  

Shingle Roofs - Roof covering should be inspected for damaged, loose or missing shingles. Special attention should be paid to high wear areas such as where downspouts from upper roofs discharge onto lower roofs. Flashings at dormers, plumbing stacks, valleys, et cetera, should be carefully inspected. Supports for television antennas or satellite dishes should be checked. Electric cables (eave protection) should be well secured and properly powered. Tree branches should be kept cut back to avoid damaging the roof surface.

Flat Roofs - Flat roofs should be inspected for blisters, bubbles, and flashing details. Tar and gravel roofs should be inspected for areas of gravel erosion. Tree branches should not contact the roof surface.

Gutters and Downspouts: Gutters and downspouts should be checked for blockage, leakage (from rust holes or leaking joints) and areas requiring re-securing or re-sloping. Paint deterioration should also be noted. Downspout seams should be checked for splitting (the seam is usually against the wall). A split downspout is often plugged with debris. Water accumulates in the downspout, freezes and splits it open. At ground level, downspout extensions are recommended to divert storm water away from the foundation.

Eaves: Soffits and fascia should be inspected for loose and rotted areas as well as areas damaged by vermin. Paint condition should be noted.

Walls: Masonry walls should be checked for deteriorated brick and mortar. Stucco walls should be inspected for cracking and separating. Wood walls should be checked for rot, loose or damaged boards, caulking, and wood/ soil contact. If paint deterioration is the result of blistering or bubbling, the cause should be determined. It may be due to outward moisture migration from the interior of the house, indicating more serious problems. Metal and vinyl sidings, insulbrick and shingle sidings should be inspected for mechanical damage and loose or missing components. All walls should be checked for indications of settling. Vines should be monitored to determine whether damage to the wall surface is occurring. Deciduous vines are best checked during winter months, when there are no leaves. Vines should be kept cut back from wood trim (windows, doors, eaves, etc) and from gutters.

Exposed Foundation Walls: Foundation walls should be inspected for deteriorated brick, block, mortar or parging. Cracking due to settlement should also be noted and monitored. See additional comments under “Foundation Movement”.

Grading: The grading immediately adjacent to the house should be checked to ensure a slope of one inch per foot for the first six feet away from the house (where practical). A negative drainage or reversed slope condition will cause ponding of water near the foundation during precipitation or heavy irrigation. Ponding will allow excess water to percolate into the ground next to the foundation. This condition can compromise the load bearing properties of the soil under the structure and cause differential movement or settling of the foundation. For this reason, during the wet seasons of the year or periods of heavy irrigation, water should flow away from the foundation at all times. Catch basins should be cleaned and tested.

Doors and Windows: Caulking and weather-stripping should be checked. Broken or cracked panes of glass should be replaced. Storms should be installed in the fall and screens in the spring. The finishes should be checked for paint deterioration and rot (particularly sills). Window wells should be cleaned.

Porches and Decks: Wooden components should be checked for rot and insect infestation. Wood should be painted or stained as required. Steps and railings should be secure Garages: Automatic garage door openers should be tested monthly and adjusted to auto-reverse in the event of an emergency.

Driveways and Sidewalks: Driveways and sidewalks should be checked for cracks and deterioration. Cracks on the concrete surfaces should be sealed to help prevent further displacement/deterioration of the load bearing soil/ground under the slab. Settling which will result in surface water run off towards the house should be corrected, as should uneven sections that pose a safety hazard to pedestrians.

Retaining Walls and Fences: Wooden retaining walls and fences should be checked for rot and insect infestation. Retaining walls should be checked for evidence of movement. Trees, Shrubs and Vines: Limbs overhanging the house should be cut back. Dead limbs should be removed. Vines should be trimmed back from all wood, brick and roof surfaces.

STRUCTURE

Foundation Movement: Soils in Texas consist of expansive clays and are generally the most affected by seasonal moisture changes. Differential foundation movement can occur if wetting and drying out of the clays does not occur uniformly across the footprint of the foundation. This differential movement is the prelude to foundation shifting. Said movement can manifest itself in the form of doors out of square, cracks on the foundation and walls, to mention a few. Foundation movement can be controlled by maintaining a uniform level of moisture of the soil around the foundation. This can be accomplished with the aid of a sprinkler system or “soaker” hose. To properly balance the level of moisture around a foundation, additional moisture is sometimes required on West and South exposures of the structure.

Exterior Walls: Walls should be checked for evidence of deterioration, dampness and movement. Limited dampness from slow moisture migration can be anticipated with most older foundation walls. This will often result in minor surface deterioration. Semi-annual inspections allow for monitoring of this situation. Cracks and voids should be filled. Filling cracks allows for easy monitoring of movement between inspections. Access hatches should be provided to all crawl space areas. Wood Framing: Exposed wooden structural components in the basement should be checked for evidence of rot and insect infestation. Deterioration usually results in sagging structural components.

Interior Wall and Ceiling Surface Cracks: Interior wall and ceiling surface cracks should be monitored for evidence of significant movement. Minor movement due to normal settling and shrinkage should be anticipated.

Door Frames: Door frames should be checked to determine a square condition. Door frames showing significant movement over a six-month period are normally indications of more serious problems.

ELECTRICAL

Main Panel: The main electrical panel should be checked annually for rust or watermarks indicating moisture penetration. All breakers should be turned off and on to ensure none have seized. A panel that is warm to the touch or smells of burned insulation should be brought to the attention of an electrician. Burned wires indicating loose or poor connections should be repaired by a qualified electrician. All circuits should be labeled. Ground fault circuit interrupters should be tested monthly. Aluminum wire connections inside the distribution panel should be tightened annually. This should be done by a qualified electrician. The area around the main panel, for roughly three feet in all directions, should be kept clear of storage.

Indoor Wiring: Poor or loose connections noted should be corrected by a qualified electrician. Frayed or damaged wire, including extension cords, appliance cords and plugs, should be replaced. Loose outlets and switches should be tightened. Ground fault circuit interrupter electrical outlets should be tested monthly. Aluminum wire connection points throughout the house should be upgraded with CO/ALR fixtures/components by a qualified electrician.

Outdoor Wiring: The masthead and the wires leading to the street (if overhead) should be inspected to make sure that they are not loose or frayed. Overhead wiring leading to out buildings such as garages should also be inspected. Exterior outlets should have proper covers. Ideally, ordinary exterior outlets should be replaced with ground fault circuit interrupter type outlets.

HEATING

All Forced Air Systems: Conventional filters on forced-air systems should be checked monthly and cleaned or replaced as needed. Electronic filters should be checked monthly and cleaned as needed. The manufacturer’s instructions should be followed carefully. Care should be taken to ensure the interior components are installed in the correct orientation after cleaning. Noisy blower sections should be brought to the attention of a technician.

All Hot Water Systems: Radiators and convectors should be inspected annually for leakage (particularly at the valves). Radiators should be bled of air annually, and as necessary during the heating season. Circulating pumps should be lubricated twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained annually.

Electric Heat: Electric furnaces and boilers should be inspected by a qualified technician every year to ensure that all the components are operating properly and no connections are loose or burned. The fuses or circuit breakers in some electric systems can be checked by the homeowner. Electric baseboard heaters should be inspected to ensure an adequate clearance from combustibles. Baseboard heaters, which have been mechanically damaged, should be repaired or replaced.

Gas Furnaces and Boilers: If gas odors can be detected, call the gas company immediately. Do not turn on any electrical equipment or use anything with an open flame. Gas furnaces and boilers should be cleaned and serviced annually. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose or corroded sections. The chimney clean out should be cleared of any debris. The heat shield (located where the burner enters the heat exchanger) should be checked to ensure that it is not loose or corroded. Burn marks around the heat shield may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.

Wood Stoves: Wood stove chimneys and flues should be checked for creosote build-up and cleaned at least annually (more frequently depending upon use). Clearance to combustibles around wood stoves should be maintained at all times. If there is any doubt about the safety of a wood stove, contact the city building inspector immediately.

COOLING/HEAT PUMPS

A qualified technician should be engaged to inspect the system and recharge it if necessary annually. Most systems require the power to be on for up to twenty-four hours before using the system. A condensate drain line emerging from the ductwork above the furnace should be visually checked for leakage during the cooling season. The outdoor section should be level. If the outdoor component settles or heaves, a specialist should make adjustments. The refrigerant lines should be checked for damaged, missing or loose insulation. Debris and vegetation should be kept away from the outdoor component of the system. Most manufacturers prefer to have the outdoor component left uncovered during the winter to prevent rust. The outdoor coil should be kept clean. A noisy fan may mean a bearing problem or misalignment. Window air conditioners should be removed for the winter.

ATTICS

Attics should be inspected annually for water stains on the underside of the roof sheathing. One should also look for rot, mildew, and fungus indicating high humidity levels in the attic. Check to make sure the insulation is not wet. Some types of loose insulation are prone to being blown around during periods of high wind. Check for bare spots and ensure that insulation is not covering pot lights. Attic vents should be checked to ensure that they are not obstructed. Often, birds build nests in these vents. Vents at the eaves are often plugged with insulation. Watch for evidence of pests (squirrels, raccoons, etc.). Rafters (supporting the roof) and collar ties (horizontal members running across the attic between opposing rafters) should be inspected for rot and movement. NOTE: Be careful walking around. Don't fall through or step on wires. Compressed insulation loses much of its insulating value.

PLUMBING

Supply Plumbing: Supply plumbing should be checked annually for leaks. Precautions should be taken to ensure that plumbing in areas, such as, crawl spaces will not freeze during winter months. Outdoor faucets should be shut off from the interior and drained for the winter. Operate the main shut-off valve and critical isolating valves to ensure proper operation in the event of an emergency. Leaking or dripping faucets should be repaired. Well equipment should be inspected semi-annually. A water quality test should be performed periodically on the advice of local authorities.

Waste Plumbing: Visible waste plumbing should be checked for leaks. Exterior drains should be checked and cleaned as necessary. Slow drains within the house should be cleared. Septic tanks should be checked and cleaned every two/three years.

Fixtures: Toilets should be checked to ensure that they are properly secured to the floor. Listen for toilets that run continuously. Grouting and caulking at all bathroom fixtures should be checked and renewed as necessary.

Water Heaters: Modern water heaters have a test lever on the pressure relief valve. This lever should be tested following the manufacturer’s recommendations to ensure that the pressure relief valve is not seized. In some areas, sludge may accumulate in the bottom of the tank. Draining some water from the bottom of the tank will indicate the presence of sludge and the necessity for regular draining. Be sure to shut off the power or fuel supply prior to draining any water from the tank.

INTERIOR 

Walls and ceilings should be inspected for cracks in interior finishes. The amount of movement should be noted so that it can be monitored in the future. Bulges in wall and ceiling surfaces should be carefully monitored. Separated plaster, particularly on ceilings, can fall and cause injury.

Walls, particularly in comers and areas of dead air (behind drapes for example), should be checked for evidence of condensation and mildew indicating high humidity levels within the house. Water stains on interior finishes should be noted. If the source cannot be detected, they should be monitored.

Door frames should be inspected. Door frames, which become out of square during a relatively short period (six months), may indicate structural problems.

Condensation on windows indicates high humidity levels during winter months. This can sometimes lead to rot.

Fireplaces and chimneys should be cleaned and inspected at least annually, depending upon usage.

 

PRIORITY MAINTENANCE FOR HOMEOWNERS

There are so many home maintenance and repair items that are important; it can be confusing trying to establish which are the most critical. To simplify things, we have compiled a short list of our favorites. These are by no means all-inclusive, nor do they replace any of the information in a home inspection report. They should, however, help you get started on the right foot. Remember, any items marked as priority or safety issues on your home inspection report need immediate attention. To further assist you with this task, a checklist has been prepared for your convenience.

“ONE TIME TASKS”

1. Change the locks on all doors.

2. Install smoke detectors as necessary. A minimum of one smoke detector on each level of the home, near any sleeping areas, is recommended. The preferred practice is to install one smoke detector per bedroom.

3. Make any electrical improvements recommended in the home inspection report.

4. Remove any wood/soil in contact with the structure of the house to prevent rot, water intrusion and insect damage.

5. Remove or correct trip hazards such as broken or uneven walks, patios and driveways. Loose or torn carpet or flooring should also be repaired promptly.

6. Correct unsafe stairways and landings. (Treads uneven, too narrow, sloped, loose; risers irregular or too high; landings missing, poorly lit or too small; railings missing, loose, too low, et cetera).

7. Have all chimneys inspected and, if necessary, repair and/or clean before operating any of these appliances.

8. Locate and mark the shut-offs for the heating, electrical and plumbing systems.

9. If there is a septic system, have the tank inspected, and pumped if necessary. If the house is on a private water supply (well), set up a regular testing procedure for checking water quality. Also, a coliform analysis is recommended.

“REGULAR MAINTENANCE ITEMS”

1. Replace backup batteries in smoke detectors once a year.

2. Clean the gutters in the spring and fall.

3. Check for damaged roofing and flashing materials twice a year.

4. Cut back trees and shrubs from the house walls, roof and air conditioning system as needed.

5. Clean the tracks on horizontal sliding windows annually, and ensure the drain holes are clear.

6. Test ground fault circuit interrupters using the test button, monthly.

7. Service furnace yearly.

8. Check furnace filters, humidifiers and electronic air cleaners monthly.

9. Check the bathtub and shower caulking monthly and improve promptly as needed.

10. If you are in a climate where freezing occurs, shut off outdoor water faucets in the fall and install a freeze protection cap.

11. If the house has a crawl space, maintain adequate ventilation and inspect for plumbing leaks several times a year

12. Check attics for evidence of leaks and condensation and make sure vents are not obstructed at least twice a year.

“PREVENTION IS THE BEST APPROACH” Although we’ve heard it many times, nothing could be truer than the old cliché “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Preventative maintenance is the best way to keep your house in great shape. It also reduces the risk of unexpected repairs and improves the odds of selling your house at fair market value, when the time comes. Please feel free to contact our office should you have any questions regarding the operation or maintenance of your home. Enjoy your home!

DISCLAIMER: ASSETPRO Home Inspections provides the information above to attempt to inform new homeowners about general home maintenance. The maintenance suggestions listed above are by no means a complete list of items that require maintenance in a home. The statements above are only a compilation of maintenance suggestions based on general experience in the business of Real Estate property management, ownership and renovation. 

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